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Archive for Emerald Cut

Q: Hi Ira, My goal is an emerald cut diamond in the 1.5 carat range. My parameters would be your suggested minimums including H and VS2. Eye clean is required. Should I assume an Emerald cut VS2 or better should always be eye clean? My likely setting is this one:

http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/settings-with-sidestones/ring/item_58-169.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

I have located this diamond:

http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1305777.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

at James Allen and have ordered the image (which I will be happy to fwd to you for your review). It certainly seems like a nice price for this diamond. I would like your opinion on this diamond and any other similar ones you might be able to find and recommend. I assume/hope you receive some type of payment from the sources from which you recommend a diamond that is subsequently purchased. I would of course cooperate in any way necessary in this regard.

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Q: Hi Ira, I’ve been trolling your site for *months* while I have tried to surreptitiously find out what style setting, cut of stone (and other attributes) my girlfriend of six years would like on an . I think I’ve finally managed to narrow it down to an emerald cut diamond on a baguette-tapered platinum setting. I’m looking to get max bang for buck with the stone and have always been intrigued by your eye-clean SI’s and near colorless with a hint of fluorescence picks… …So can you help me find the best rock that’s eye-clean, sparkles in natural light, no visible inclusions and offers value? I feel terribly guilty asking someone on the Internet to help me find a stone… But I’ve read so many other email exchanges that today I finally bit the bullet :) Looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks

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Q. Ira, I am currently shopping for an and got in touch with a jeweler in the diamond district in New York. He was recommended by a friend and seems like his prices are reasonable. He has suggested one stone which was a little more expensive than I was looking for, but claims it has a very attractive cut. I have pasted his comments below. I am hoping for an independent perspective on his comments and if this one is worth the additional cost. “I looked through all of my emerald cut diamonds. I have one which weighs 2.05 carats. It is a very fine cut, “H” color, clarity “VS2″. It is more expensive than the approximate price I quoted you- the price is $16,000. It is a really beautiful cut. The table is 68%, the depth is 67.9%. I do have some which are less expensive but I know that you are concerned about the cut. The others were either less deep (about 64%) or cut deeper (69.5%) and the tables were not as fine. The price was about $1,000 less- about $15,000.” Thanks for your help in advance

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A new day, a new daily diamond series.  Today, in the same tradition of our Best Round Diamond for Different Budgets series and our Best Princess Cut Diamond for Different Budgets series, we begin the Best Asscher Cut Diamond for Different Budgets series.  Today, as with the others, we begin with a budget of $15,000.  So with no further ado, I present you with the best Asscher cut for $15,000.

Here’s the Stats (or Click Here for a Copy of the GIA Certificate):

Carats: 2.07

Diamond Color: H

Diamond Clarity: VVS1

Measurements: 7.25*6.94*4.69

Length/Width Ratio: 1.04

Diamond Polish: Very Good

Diamond Symmetry: Very Good

Depth: 67.6%

Table: 64%

Diamond Fluorescence: None

Diamond Price: $15,070

Since we are picking Asscher Cuts, which, like their longer cousins the Emerald Cut, are cut for their luster and not brilliance, they are the poorest of the diamond shapes at hiding inclusions.  A VS2 clarity inclusion or even a VS1 clarity inclusion that’s dark and in the table will probably be visible to the naked eye.

Today’s diamond did not have a picture available from James Allen, but since it’s a VVS2, I don’t feel that it is necessary.  The make on this stone is fantastic.  It has a 67.6% depth which makes this Asscher cut physically bigger than most.

Click Here to be Brought to the Diamond on James Allen

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90 pointers (generally diamonds from 0.90 to 0.99 ct, although some stores consider 0.85+ to be a 90 pointer) are a great way to save money if you’re looking for a 1 carat diamond.  They are almost as large as full 1 carat diamonds, but they cost significantly less.  I think most industry experts would agree that the cost savings in 90 pointers far outweigh the lost benefit of owning a slightly smaller diamond.

Today’s Recommended Diamond is a great example of a big-looking 90 pointer.  Here’s the stats (Unfortunately, a cert copy was not available at press time):

Click Here to Enlarge Picture

Click Here to Enlarge Picture

F Diamond Color

SI1 Diamond Clarity

Emerald Cut

67.4% Depth

71% Table

Measurements: 7.62*4.39*2.96

Ratio: 1.74

Fluorescence: None

Polish: Very Good

Symmetry: Good

Price: $2,540

This stone is a great pic since it’s not very common to find eye-clean SI clarity emerald cuts.  As you can see in the picture above, there is only a tiny speck noticeable in the table of the diamond. The rest of the SI1 is concentrated on the sides, under the stepped facets where it will be broken up by the reflected light.

Click Here to be Brought to the Diamond on JamesAllen.com

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Q: Apologies in advance for this extended question.

My girlfriend wants a three stone made of emerald cut diamonds, a centre stone of approx 0.9 carat with the long edge of the stone running parallel with the finger, the two side stone set with the long edge set perpendicular to the main stone all in a rub over setting. Despite an extended tour of Hatton Garden jewellers we didn’t manage to see any rings of this design although I am quite happy to have it made. Regarding the above I have a number of questions.

I have seen 2 diamonds on suitable for the main diamond (both with a L/W of 1.5 as this is the ratio she wants). The first is;

0.9 carat
VG cut
I colour

6.85×4.55×3.08 size
£1909 ($2860) price

Second;
0.91 carat
VG cut
G colour
VS2 clarity
6.88×4.54×3.13 size
£2445 ($3680) price

The difference between the two is almost $1000, presumably down to the colour as the cheaper diamond has less inclusions. Would your average punter be able to tell the difference, is it ‘worth’ the extra money?

The two side diamonds will probably be about 0.25-0.3 carat each, any larger and I think the ring would be to broad. Is there any point getting certificated diamonds or should I just leave this to the jeweller to find a matching pair of the right size. I have looked on and James Allen but the smallest matching pair are about 0.5 carats each. I have seen two diamonds on that are very similar in specification (see below), just a very small difference in the dimension and level of polish (VG and excellent respectively) would these look like a matching pair?

0.24 carat
VG cut
G colour

4.13×3.13×2.15 size
£184 ($276) price

0.24 carat
VG cut
G colour

4.08×3.07×2.11 size
£196 ($294) price

Apologies in advance for this extended question.

A: Before I give you my full answer: will the ring be plat/white gold or yellow gold?

3-stone-ring-drawingQ: Platinum. Sorry one more thing, as I said previously the girlfreind wants a rub over setting (I attach a sketch I have drawn of the ring) as it wont catch on her clothes, she would prefer the sides to be fully enclosed. Does this effect the ‘sparkle’ or shine of the diamond being enclosed like this.

A: First of all, congratulations and thanks for writing! I really hope I can help you out. Unfortunately, with an emerald cut, you really do need to buy a diamond with a high clarity grade. Since the stone doesn’t have “brilliant” facets, but rather stepped facets, it’s very easy to see what’s floating around inside the diamond material. I did a quick run-through of James Allen’s inventory (since they have pictures) to see if any of the SI’s were decent. But since they were almost F colors anyway, none of them were really any cheaper than what you found. Especially considering the extra shipping fee and %1 commission they charge for international shipping.

Since the ring will be Platinum, I’m afraid I’d have to advise you to go with the “G” color stone. This is also due to the fact that it’s an emerald cut. Since there are no brilliant facets that break up the light, the color is much more easily seen. An will definitely have more of a “warm” feeling to it compared to a in an emerald cut.

I went on BN UK and checked the details of the stone in question, and it reads very nicely. The only thing that concerns me is that a VS2 can still be quite noticeable, especially in an Emerald cut. If you take a look at my site in the “Truth about Clarity” article, you can see a good example of this. And that’s a round cut! In any event, I would say go for it, and if the diamond has a black center inclusion, you can always return it within 30 days.

Regarding the side stones, in your drawing the side stones take up about 40% of the length of the center stone along each side. If you use the 1/4cts you picked out, they would take up about the same, so it should have the same balance as the drawing (6.88 length of center stone / 3.10 width of side stones). As for whether they match or not, I would need to see the rest of their parameters. Would you mind sending me the links to those 2 stones? One thing you might want to consider, though, is getting stones that are slightly lower in color (1, 2 grades max) than they center stone. It will make the center stone really pop out at you.

Unless your jeweler is a reliable wholesale type operation, you probably won’t save any money having him source the emeralds.

As far as the setting goes, a bezel setting (what you are calling “rub over”) won’t affect the diamonds beauty. But just keep in mind that emeralds don’t “sparkle” so much regardless of their setting. They’re not designed for sparkle.

I hope this helps! Please follow up with the side stone parameters.

A: Firstly thank you very much for taking so much time in your reply. This represent a sizable outlay for me and the advice is really appreciated. Interesting to know that the diamonds can be returned. I found the two quarter carat diamonds on BN UK. I have put the details of the diamonds below including the stock number. Hopefully this is enough for you to find them. If not there is an option to ‘email to a friend’ which i guess sends a link to the page.

Once again thank you for your help.

Stock number LD01147484
0.24 carat
VG cut
G colour
VS1 clarity
4.13×3.13×2.15 size
£184 price

Stock number LD01167987
0.24 carat
VG cut
G colour
VS1 clarity
4.08×3.07×2.11 size
£196 price

A: I checked the two diamonds, and their parameters match up quite nicely. Just fyi, I was double checking that their table % and depth % were a match as well. The depth % is exact, and the table is only off slightly (which is fine). As I’m sure you did, I checked to see if there were any small stones at slightly lower colors, but unfortunately there aren’t. This should make a beautiful ring! It’s a wonderful way to start off your lives together!

As I mention on my website, I never ask for any kind of payment from the people I advise. The only thing I ask — if you’ve found my advice helpful — is to click on an “affiliate link” of mine before you make your purchase. An affiliate link basically tells that I referred you to their website (it works for 30 days from the day of the “click”). I will then earn a 5% commission on the sale. You, of course, will still pay the exact same price. In fact, you’ll never notice any difference at all to your order.

Thanks again, and I really hope I was helpful!

Best Wishes for a Loving Happy Marriage! (We just celebrated our 10th anniversary this year!)

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This question came from a reader of my article about Diamond Cut.

Q: that’s great, but what about fancy cuts? I am interested in a rectangular diamond, and the amount of conflicting information on what angles and proportions are preferable is very confusing.  Some sites say that to be a very good cut, the table and depth percentages need to be less than 65%, other say that for a rectangular radiant, depths of more than 70% are preferable.  Help!

A: You bring up a very good point. Aside from perhaps length to width ratios, there really aren’t any universally accepted ideal cut standards for any fancy shape.  There was a lot of talk at one point of some of the labs coming out with Princess and Emerald cut grading scales, but I’m not sure whatever came of it.

For the straight-sided brilliant cuts (like radiant and princess), the general rule of thumb as I recall is (70% depth, 70% table).  But unlike the 60/60 rule with rounds, there is significantly more leeway. For example, a princess cut can range from about 65% depth to about 75% depth and still look great, but a 65% depth round stone will be just shy of hideous. With Radiants, the ideal range is probably more like 60% to 74% depth.

With the round-sided fancy shapes (like oval and marquise), you either really need to see the stone, or make sure the online vendor you’re buying from has a good return policy.

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Q: What price range could you give me for the following specs: emerald cut, Carat weight:1.03, Color grade: D, Clarity Grade: VS2, Polish: Very good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence:  Medium yellow, no additional clouds. Measurements: 6.83 x 5.06 x 3.49, Depth:  69.0%,  Table:  71%,  Girdle:  Medium to Very Thick.

A: I did a quick check on a diamond listing site for the diamond trade (not open to private customers) for the closest thing I could find to your stone.  Unfortunately, Medium Yellow is quite rare, so I could not find an exact match.  It seems that with no fluorescence, your diamond would cost around -40% rap (4140 per carat) at the wholesale level since it is such a nice make.  I would guess that the Medium Yellow would knock off around 5-7% rap points leaving the wholesale price of your stone around 3700 per carat.  Yellow is generally considered worse than the more common blue fluorescence.  Also, fluorescence always reduces the price the most when coupled with a “D” color.   So to figure a proper online retail price, add about 15-20% markup.

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