Loose Diamonds – a Buying Guide
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If you’re out there looking for the best loose diamond for your money, then please contact me and let me know your budget and what you’re looking for. I’ll sift through thousands of loose diamonds online and send you a list of 4 or 5 suggested stones to choose from that fit your needs the best. Unlike the other sites, I’m not looking to sell you anything – my advice is objective and in your best interest. The service is free, and there is absolutely no commitment to buy any of my suggestions. You have nothing to lose!
Why this article?
This article is for anybody looking to buy a loose diamond (either by itself or with an engagement ring as a “build your own” set) online at one of the many online diamond vendors. If you’ve been around my site before, you’ll see that I generally recommend buying from James Allen. For an explanation of why that is, see here: James Allen vs. Blue Nile and here: Truth About TruthAboutDiamonds.com. Likewise, you can read my individual site reviews for James Allen and Blue Nile.
What Carat Weight Range Should I Choose?
This is probably the most important question you will ask yourself when buying loose diamonds, because compared to all the other factors, carat weight has the greatest effect on a loose diamond’s price. Additionally, carat weight is of supreme importance because this is what will primarily determine the size of the diamond you buy. What are your fiance-to-be’s expectations? Is she expecting a 2 carat diamond? Will she be disappointed with a 0.50 carat diamond? These are crucial issues, so make sure to do your research thoroughly before you buy. If you can’t speak to her about it, try to speak with her friends or family. In most cases, the answer will be “the larger the better,” but it’s always good to know what her minimum expectations are.
What Shape Should I Choose?
The second most important issue you’ll have to figure out when buying a certified diamond is what diamond shape is your girlfriend expecting? The answer to this question is purely a matter of aesthetics. There’s no calculation you can make that will tell you what she wants. For this question, more than any other, try consulting her friends. Very probably, she’s mentioned it before to one of them. If you simply can’t get the answer, and you absolutely do not want to ask her, then the safest bet is the Round Brilliant. Rounds are the most common diamond shape by far. Most sites have a 30-day return policy, so if you order it close enough to the proposal date, and you get it wrong, you can always send it back and buy what she really wants.
Keep in mind, however, that shape can affect a loose diamond’s price. All else being equal, round brilliant loose diamonds cost more than the other shapes (generally called “fancy shapes”). The reason for this is that round brilliant certified diamonds have a much lower yield-from-rough than the other shapes.
What Diamond Cut Quality Should I Choose?
The first two questions simply set the stage for the real technical decisions. Now that you know how big of a stone you need and what shape it should be, you need to decide on the Diamond Cut quality. Cut Quality will also have a notable effect on the price of loose diamonds. Choosing a cut quality can be tricky, however, since cut grades are not standardized at all across the different vendors. Some vendors only offer a cut grade on their round diamonds and base them on the certificate’s cut grade (with the exception of AGS, the labs do not offer cut grades on fancy shapes). Other vendors disregard the certificate’s cut grade altogether on rounds and fancy shapes, and use their own matrix of cut grades based on the diamonds’ measurements. Combining these different strategies in a meaningful way is difficult to say the least. Whenever possible, you should use the certificate’s cut grade over and above the individual site’s cut grade.
My advice for cut grade is this: If you are looking for a round brilliant diamond, only search for “Ideal/Excellent” grade diamonds. If you are searching for a fancy shape, however, then it might pay to either include “Premium” or to disregard the cut grade altogether. This is not to say that cut grade is not important – on the contrary, it’s of utmost importance. It’s simply saying that many vendors don’t correctly report fancy shape cut grades, so why filter out many results from your search which might be great choices.
What Color Grade Should I Choose for loose Diamonds?
More so than a Diamond’s Clarity, a Diamond’s Color has a serious effect on both a loose certified diamond’s appearance and price. For recommendations as to the best color to choose for the best value, see our article about diamond color. It is important to remember than different shapes reflect color at different strengths, so your choice of optimal color balancing the diamond’s appearance with the diamond’s price will depend greatly on what diamond shape you’ve chosen.
What Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
As opposed to Color and Carats, I like to think about Clarity not in terms of a sliding scale of grades, but as a binary grade. What I mean by this is that all I care about when evaluating clarity is whether or not a loose diamond is clean to the naked eye. If it’s any cleaner than that, it’s just going to cost you more money without giving you anything back in return. You’re better off buying the lowest possible clarity grade that is still clean to the naked eye and using the money you saved to either buy yourself a larger diamond or a diamond with a higher color.
With most vendors, this isn’t possible because you can’t see the diamond before you buy it. James Allen, however, lets you get beyond this hurdle. With their “Virtual Loupe” you can evaluate a loose diamond before you buy it. If you have any doubt as to whether or not a stone’s inclusion pattern will be clean to the naked eye or not, please feel free to email me a link to the stone and I’ll be happy to take a look for you and give you my educated opinion.
For an informative overview of the different clarity grades, take a look at this diamond clarity chart.
What about Fluorescence, Polish, and Symmetry?
These will also affect a stone’s value (but not necessarily its appearance) to some degree, although much less so than the factors mentioned above. For an in-depth discussion of each of these three factors, please see these individual articles: Diamond Fluorescence, Diamond Polish, and Diamond Symmetry.
Which Diamond Lab’s Certificate Should I Look for with my Loose Diamond?
You should consider only GIA Certified Diamonds and AGS Certified Diamonds in your search for a loose diamond. You should stay away from IGI, EGL, and HRD Certified diamonds because I have found in my professional experience that their results cannot be relied upon due to their consistent inconsistency in grading. Feel free to read the articles I wrote on each individual lab linked to above.
Related posts:
- Q&A: “Losing it Over Loose Diamonds”
- Q&A: Skeptical About Truth About Diamonds and Buying Online in General (and Problem with Chipped Stone)
- Q&A: Looking for Loose Round 0.6 Carat Diamond
- Buying Diamonds in the UK VAT and Customs/Duty Tax Free
- Q&A: Should I Buy a Beautiful Loose Diamond in Bahrain, Ira?
I’m looking to purchase a round diamond for a solitaire setting. I would like the stone to be as large as possible keeping a budget of $8500 in mind. Not a firm budget but would be ideal. What are your thoughts on these stones?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Very%20Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1452981.asp
or
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-I1-Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1428351.asp
or
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Very%20Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1452981.asp
or
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-I1-Fair-Cut-Round-Diamond-1455392.asp
I’ve learned more about diamonds since I found your site last night than I have over the previous 6 months of looking. Thanks for all of your help.
Hey Brad. I appreciate all the compliments! Of your picks, the only one I like is this one: http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Very%20Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1452981.asp
I’m open to suggestions as your response doesn’t convince me I’ve found the one. I’ve been looking at cushion cuts today and they seem to be a better value than a round and I’m open to either. What do you think of these stones?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI1-Good-Cut-Cushion-Diamond-1466841.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-SI2-Good-Cut-Cushion-Diamond-1466077.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-SI2-Good-Cut-Cushion-Diamond-1466077.asp
Hi brad. Your problem is that you’re too flexible when it comes to cut which is probably the most important factor overall. If you want a cushion cut, here’s what I suggest:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Cushion-Diamond-1383020.asp
Hello. Thanks for having such a wonderful site! I came upon it the other night and have already learned far more than from any other place…I’m trying to find a round brilliant that is as close to 1 carat as I can get…or roughly 6.5mm. I will be setting it in a 4 prong platinum setting…I was close to getting one from Blue Nile, but not being able to see what I am buying really bothers me. I’ve seen a couple on James Allen, but my budget is $7,000, though preferably closer to $6,500. I’ve been saving up for years, so I really don’t want to make a purchase I will regret. That’s why I was hoping you could help. Any recommendations? Thank you very much in advance.
Hey Steve. That budget is for the diamond only, or that needs to include the setting? If it’s for the setting, do you know what kind of setting you want? Even if it doesn’t need to include the setting, let me know what kind you want as it will make a difference in terms of the color I can go down to.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for getting back so quickly. I apologize for a lack of knowledge on the subject, so I hope I’m getting it right. The budget is for the diamond only. I checked over my funds and $7,000 looks good….I wouldn’t mind spending a little more, but I’m unable to have that money up front unless they let me pay for most of the diamond ($7000) and finance the remainder (not sure if that’s an option with any of these places?). The setting is going to be a 4 Prong Round Peg Setting…
similar to this:
http://www.findingking.com/popup.aspx?src=images/Product/large/qu-wg122_freeshipping.jpg
The ring size is a 4 1/2, and the band will be tapered from approximately 2mm at the bottom to 3.5mm at the setting. I’m making the wax model now, and am planning to have it cast in Platinum, but am open to suggestions on material. If you think a diamond would look better in white gold, I would gladly change the plans, as long as the color of the metal is “silver.” There will be no other diamonds in the ring. I wish money wasn’t an issue but I’d like to propose much sooner rather than later! I just want to thank you again for helping me. Reading over these articles and posts has helped me out so much and I’m finally starting to feel like I will pull this off!
Best,
Steve
I Steve. I think one of these will suit you great in a plain solitaire:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/J-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1445627.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/J-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1433123.asp
The first one’s probably a better pick because the medium blue fluorescence will whiten the stone’s face a bit.
As for the metal – either WG or plat will be fine. Neither one looks nicer than the other with a diamond.
I really appreciate this site and all of the information you guys provide. It has been a great help. Thank you
I have come up with more questions since reading through this info though. I have about $2500 to spend on an engagement ring, and I don’t know whether I would be better off getting something smaller with an ideal cut, or if a larger diamond with a less than ideal cut would still look good. Do you have any advice? I want a princess cut and would like it to be as big as I can afford, but I also don’t want it to just as big as I can afford and not look good otherwise.
Hey Ryan. Happy to help. Firstly – what kind of setting did you have in mind?
Thanks for your willingness to help. I was looking at primarily solitare settings but some pave settings as well.
Hi Ryan. I need to know which kind, because with your budget, it’ll make a big difference in terms of the kind of diamond I could find you with the money left over after the setting.
Lets focus on just a solitare setting.
What do you think these?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1462916.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1452968.asp
Hey Ryan. This one is awesome: http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1452968.asp
The best out of the 3 for sure. Cut is perfect.
Or this one versus one of those other two? I know it’s bigger, but is it going to look as good?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/I-VS1-Good-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1466797.asp
Thank you for all your help!
I am buying a diamond in the UK. Do you think this one is a good value? £3600, princess cut, 0.82 carat, E color, VS1, very good cut, GIA certificate, none fluoressence, 5.47*5.06*3.77, modified squared
If this is the stone you’re talking about in your other comment, then the answer is no – this is not a nice stone. It’s noticeably off-square.
Yes, it includes VAT and also a bespoke platinum ring (but the jeweler said the stone itself will cost £3600 hence I ask about price for the stone).
Could you help recommend a good value diamond in this price range? I have read successful stories on the post by Ira Weissman about UK customers buying better value diamonds from the States: http://www.truthaboutdiamonds.com/2009/09/06/buying-from-the-uk-vat-customs-duty-free/, so I hope I will be the next lucky one.
Hi JR. I work with Ira hand in hand. If you read that Q&A, then you know it was referring to flying to the US to pick up the ring and bring it back on your finger through customs. I’m not sure with your budget it would be worth it. The savings would probably be more than the cost of the ticket, but it would still be a big headache going in to the States for a day.
But you can definitely get a better deal even if you do end up paying VAT. These are much better options for you than that off-square stone on which you were quoted:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/E-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1463502.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1437551.asp
Do you think this is a good value stone:
0.82 carat, E color, VS1, very good cut, princess cut, modified square, none fluorescence, GIA certified, £3600.
does that include VAT? What’s the table and depth percentages?
Ira,
Thanks for everything that your doing with this site. On to the question… I’m lookin for a Round Brilliant diamond my budget for the diamond is 6k although could go 6500 if you found one that was especially nice and eye clean. I’m thinking 1ct ideal cut and H color. Really wanting it to be eye clean, sparkle, and not cloudy. My setting on JA is the Pave Cathedral channel set in 18k white gold. Again thanks for everything.
V/r
Brandon
Hi Brandon. The pic on this one isn’t great, but I do think it’ll be eye clean:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1435941.asp
Also nice:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1459998.asp
I do like the fact that it’s a G in color. Do you think it’s just a crappy picture or would u be concerned that the inclusions are directly in the center. The cert shows the same. Would you recommend calling JA and asking their Gemologist to look at it to make sure it’s eye lean ?
Im pretty confident you wouldn’t be able to see those inclusions unless you looked REALLY hard. But you certainly can ask JA’s gemologists to have a look for you. Can’t hurt.
Mike says:
February 23, 2012 at 3:28 pm
Ok, so a real Tacori is easily $2k, probably more. Lets say $2500. So that’s 3500 for the diamond. That’s probably a fair price for what the diamond really is (likely an I/J SI2/I1). So don’t worry too much.
another stupid question? haha so sorry! What do you mean by (likely an I/J SI2/I1) &
How much would you say a .90 G SI1 certified round diamond goes for? And do you think it’s better to have a certified diamond or non ceritified diamond? Again so sorry for so many questions!
See my article on EGL for why that is.
breaks my heart
Thank you so much for ansering my questions
Thank you so much! I was thinking of having the jewler make me a cheaper setting, and see what he can do with the credit & maybe get are bands. What do you think? How much does a halo setting go for without being a Tacori? Just makes me upset that he spent so much on a Tacori setting. I don’t even know if Tacori is a good brand? I never heard of it until now! Sorry for so many questions!
I wouldn’t bother. Just enjoy what you have. The jeweler probably wouldn’t let you do that since it would probably ruin the setting.
Hi, I love your site. You guys have been so helpful to a diamond dummy like me. I have several questions but I will keep this simple.
I was originally looking for someting under 1.0ct since the price jumps so much. Originally I looked for .70 to .90. After going to a few Jewlers from Jewelry Exchange to DeBeers Jewlers with my girlfriend, I got overwhelmed by the differences between jewlers and certification labs. Your site has really helped clear that up. The DeBeers guy even gave me some really good info (I know he was trying to sell me) that I have verified from your site. Ok. My girfriend tried the .70 and 1.0 DeBeers sizes and really felt that 1.0ct was what she wants. So, I am totally fine with 1.0ct (thanks to James Allen). My question is if I were to go as far as 1.3ct would there be a noticible size difference like going from .7 to 1.0. Here is an example I checked out on James Allen that I think looks good. Is it worth it since between the rings and diamond it is really pushing the budget to the extreme. She wants the diamond to not have any yellow. If you have any suggestions…please help.
Diamond:http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/J-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1441367.asp
This is one of the 5 differnet setting she liked. Nice since this is a set and I really love it too.
http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/ring/item_412-1902.asp
Thank you so much for your help by creating this site!
-Mike
Hey Mike. Thanks for writing and the kind words about the site. The stone you picked out is a great one, but I don’t like it with the setting you picked out. You should really be sticking with I or better (preferably H). Having said that, there is a noticeable difference between 1.3 and 1.0 – BUT the difference is probably less so if you’re setting it in a halo setting which will anyway make your stone look bigger. I like this for the same money:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1440089.asp
Thanks for the reply and suggestion Mike! So I should go with H because of the Higher color halo and side diamonds. That would make sense. So is the size difference between 1.0 and 1.20 noticible enough in this ring.
Yes, definitely.
I recently got engaged! I love my ring but when I saw the paperwork on it I was upset on how much he spent. I got a Tacori Halo Set 18k. and I got a round brillant cut 0.90 SL 1. and its egl certified. Do you think it was worth the 6000 dolars he spent?
Are you looking at the appraisal or the receipt? If it’s the appraisal, it’s probably nowhere near what he actually paid.
Thanks for getting back to me! The appraisal states 8000,00. and the receipts states 6000,00.
What’s the color on the diamond? You just told me the clarity.
Sorry! It’s a G.
Ok, so a real Tacori is easily $2k, probably more. Lets say $2500. So that’s 3500 for the diamond. That’s probably a fair price for what the diamond really is (likely an I/J SI2/I1). So don’t worry too much.