Loose Diamonds – a Buying Guide
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If you’re out there looking for the best loose diamond for your money, then please contact me and let me know your budget and what you’re looking for. I’ll sift through thousands of loose diamonds online and send you a list of 4 or 5 suggested stones to choose from that fit your needs the best. Unlike the other sites, I’m not looking to sell you anything – my advice is objective and in your best interest. The service is free, and there is absolutely no commitment to buy any of my suggestions. You have nothing to lose!
Why this article?
This article is for anybody looking to buy a loose diamond (either by itself or with an engagement ring as a “build your own” set) online at one of the many online diamond vendors. If you’ve been around my site before, you’ll see that I generally recommend buying from James Allen. For an explanation of why that is, see here: James Allen vs. Blue Nile and here: Truth About TruthAboutDiamonds.com. Likewise, you can read my individual site reviews for James Allen and Blue Nile.
What Carat Weight Range Should I Choose?
This is probably the most important question you will ask yourself when buying loose diamonds, because compared to all the other factors, carat weight has the greatest effect on a loose diamond’s price. Additionally, carat weight is of supreme importance because this is what will primarily determine the size of the diamond you buy. What are your fiance-to-be’s expectations? Is she expecting a 2 carat diamond? Will she be disappointed with a 0.50 carat diamond? These are crucial issues, so make sure to do your research thoroughly before you buy. If you can’t speak to her about it, try to speak with her friends or family. In most cases, the answer will be “the larger the better,” but it’s always good to know what her minimum expectations are.
What Shape Should I Choose?
The second most important issue you’ll have to figure out when buying a certified diamond is what diamond shape is your girlfriend expecting? The answer to this question is purely a matter of aesthetics. There’s no calculation you can make that will tell you what she wants. For this question, more than any other, try consulting her friends. Very probably, she’s mentioned it before to one of them. If you simply can’t get the answer, and you absolutely do not want to ask her, then the safest bet is the Round Brilliant. Rounds are the most common diamond shape by far. Most sites have a 30-day return policy, so if you order it close enough to the proposal date, and you get it wrong, you can always send it back and buy what she really wants.
Keep in mind, however, that shape can affect a loose diamond’s price. All else being equal, round brilliant loose diamonds cost more than the other shapes (generally called “fancy shapes”). The reason for this is that round brilliant certified diamonds have a much lower yield-from-rough than the other shapes.
What Diamond Cut Quality Should I Choose?
The first two questions simply set the stage for the real technical decisions. Now that you know how big of a stone you need and what shape it should be, you need to decide on the Diamond Cut quality. Cut Quality will also have a notable effect on the price of loose diamonds. Choosing a cut quality can be tricky, however, since cut grades are not standardized at all across the different vendors. Some vendors only offer a cut grade on their round diamonds and base them on the certificate’s cut grade (with the exception of AGS, the labs do not offer cut grades on fancy shapes). Other vendors disregard the certificate’s cut grade altogether on rounds and fancy shapes, and use their own matrix of cut grades based on the diamonds’ measurements. Combining these different strategies in a meaningful way is difficult to say the least. Whenever possible, you should use the certificate’s cut grade over and above the individual site’s cut grade.
My advice for cut grade is this: If you are looking for a round brilliant diamond, only search for “Ideal/Excellent” grade diamonds. If you are searching for a fancy shape, however, then it might pay to either include “Premium” or to disregard the cut grade altogether. This is not to say that cut grade is not important – on the contrary, it’s of utmost importance. It’s simply saying that many vendors don’t correctly report fancy shape cut grades, so why filter out many results from your search which might be great choices.
What Color Grade Should I Choose for loose Diamonds?
More so than a Diamond’s Clarity, a Diamond’s Color has a serious effect on both a loose certified diamond’s appearance and price. For recommendations as to the best color to choose for the best value, see our article about diamond color. It is important to remember than different shapes reflect color at different strengths, so your choice of optimal color balancing the diamond’s appearance with the diamond’s price will depend greatly on what diamond shape you’ve chosen.
What Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
As opposed to Color and Carats, I like to think about Clarity not in terms of a sliding scale of grades, but as a binary grade. What I mean by this is that all I care about when evaluating clarity is whether or not a loose diamond is clean to the naked eye. If it’s any cleaner than that, it’s just going to cost you more money without giving you anything back in return. You’re better off buying the lowest possible clarity grade that is still clean to the naked eye and using the money you saved to either buy yourself a larger diamond or a diamond with a higher color.
With most vendors, this isn’t possible because you can’t see the diamond before you buy it. James Allen, however, lets you get beyond this hurdle. With their “Virtual Loupe” you can evaluate a loose diamond before you buy it. If you have any doubt as to whether or not a stone’s inclusion pattern will be clean to the naked eye or not, please feel free to email me a link to the stone and I’ll be happy to take a look for you and give you my educated opinion.
For an informative overview of the different clarity grades, take a look at this diamond clarity chart.
What about Fluorescence, Polish, and Symmetry?
These will also affect a stone’s value (but not necessarily its appearance) to some degree, although much less so than the factors mentioned above. For an in-depth discussion of each of these three factors, please see these individual articles: Diamond Fluorescence, Diamond Polish, and Diamond Symmetry.
Which Diamond Lab’s Certificate Should I Look for with my Loose Diamond?
You should consider only GIA Certified Diamonds and AGS Certified Diamonds in your search for a loose diamond. You should stay away from IGI, EGL, and HRD Certified diamonds because I have found in my professional experience that their results cannot be relied upon due to their consistent inconsistency in grading. Feel free to read the articles I wrote on each individual lab linked to above.
Related posts:
- Q&A: “Losing it Over Loose Diamonds”
- Q&A: Skeptical About Truth About Diamonds and Buying Online in General (and Problem with Chipped Stone)
- Q&A: Looking for Loose Round 0.6 Carat Diamond
- Buying Diamonds in the UK VAT and Customs/Duty Tax Free
- Q&A: Should I Buy a Beautiful Loose Diamond in Bahrain, Ira?
Hello,
I am on a couple of months away from purchasing an engagement ring for my girlfriend and need some input on what is the best place and type of diamond (4Cs). I know she wants a three stone setting, with a princess cut center diamond. My budget is between $2200 – $2700. I have been going back and forth between James Allen and Shane Co. I like the princess cut diamonds from James Allen (between .53 – .58 carat wt) but the setting I like is from Shane Co. The setting from James Allen is nice but above my price range. Would it be good to get the setting from Shane and center from James Allen. I realize that the two go through two different certification of their diamond and GIA is suppose to be the best
JA Three Stone Setting
http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/settings-with-sidestones/18k-White-Gold-3-Stone-Channel-Set-Princess-Engagement-Ring.html
Shane Co
Item #41045687
Any input about the setting and center diamond would be helpful so that I can stay within my budget.
Thanks
Hey Chris. THe problem here is that while the Shane & Co ring has a great price, it’s because it’s a fairly low quality. So I’m not really sure how to advise you! You could try to get just the setting minus the center stone and then get a stone from JA and have someone else set them together as you mentioned. If you do that, then I’d recommend this stone:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/I-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1465018.asp
Thanks! Is it considered low quality because Shane & Co uses the EGL certification and the grades on diamonds GIA would typically give it two grades down in regards to clarity. Or are you referring to quality of gold (14k vs 18k)? Do you know of an alternative company that may have great three-stone engagement settings for a reasonable price outside of James Allen?
Hi Mike.. I was wondering what you think of this stone
https://myapps.gia.edu/ReportCheckPortal/getReportData.do?&reportno=16896069&weight=1.14
Will the cut and clarity help the color? According to the seller this stone is “face up really white”. The depths and table percentages fall in the excellent range.
No, cut and clarity won’t help the color. This stone will definitely have a noticeable warmth to it.
Hi Mike,
Can you check out these stones?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-SI1-Very%20Good-Cut-Pear-Diamond-1470698.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-SI1-Very%20Good-Cut-Pear-Diamond-1389792.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-VVS1-Ideal-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1458261.asp
I actually like oval more. But you know there aren’t many oval stones on James Allen. My budget is around $12,000. Can you suggest something? Thanks.
also this one http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Marquise-Diamond-1280522.asp
Ariel,
I think you should focus on which shape you like best. The way to buy a diamond is to have a budget and a shape set. Then I can help you pick the best value in that shape.
Does the marquise look ok to you? I have the marquise and the 1389792 pear on hold. They are both under $11000. Which one do you like? I know you said to choose the shape I like the best. But I like them both
Yeah, the Marquise looks great. So does the pear. I can’t help you decide between the two because it’s no longer a diamond question – it’s a question of personal preference!
ok, let’s focus on marquise.
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI1-Very%20Good-Cut-Marquise-Diamond-1478106.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Marquise-Diamond-1421105.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Marquise-Diamond-1280522.asp
thanks.
Good call. The 1.78 is nicer than the 1.80. Has a better L/W ratio.
I like this one a little more.
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Very%20Good-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1461219.asp
I would suggest asking James Allen’s gemologist to inspect it and see if the fluorescence is an issue.
Hi Mike,
I’m looking at a stone on jamesallen and was wondering if you could tell me if it is good. The dimensions are:
Shape and Style: Round Brilliant
Measurements: 6.19 – 6.21 x 3.87 mm
Carat Weight: 0.964
Total Depth: 62.4%
Table: 58.9%
Girdle Description: Medium to Very Thick, Faceted
Culet: Pointed
Polish: Excellent
Symmetry: Very Good
Color Grade: AGS 3.0 (J)
Clarity Grade: AGS 4 (VS2)
Fluorescence: Negligible
Comments:
Table: 58.9%
Crown Angle: 35.9
Crown Height: 14.9%
Girdle: Faceted, 3.4% to 6.1%
Pavilion Angle: 39.9
Pavilion Depth: 41.6%
Star Length: 50%
Lower Girdle Length: 79%
Total Depth: 62.4%
Culet Verbose: Pointed
Is this a good stone? The price is $3400.
Thanks
Can you send me the link to the diamond? If you don’t want to post it here, just message me through the contact us button.
Hi Mike,
I am looking at buying one of these diamond rings in the next week.
Just wanted your opinion. I was thinking of going over 1ct so the actual diamond looks bigger but im not sure if the increase in price is worth it.
Option 1:
Shape: round
Carat: 0.93
Colour: H
Clarity:SI2
Measure: 6.27 x 6.28mm
Polish: Excellent
Symm: Excellent
Cut: Excellent
Clarity Characteristics: Feather
Fluorescence: Strong Blue
Certificate: GIA
Price: $3512.55 + tax AUD
Option 2:
Shape: round
Carat: 1.02
Colour: I
Clarity:SI2
Measure: 6.44 x 6.46mm
Polish: Very good
Symm: very good
Cut: Excellent
Clarity Characteristics:
Fluorescence: None
Certificate: EGL USA
Price: $3183.67 + tax AUD
Should I be trying to go under 1ct for the price?
And if i want a larger size what can i afford to sacrifice?
Thanks heaps!
Easiest answer; STAY AWAY FROM THAT STORE!
Both of those diamonds are terrible purchases at any price. Never buy a G color diamond with fluorescence and never buy an EGL.
Whoever is trying to sell you is trying to push garbage on you.
Thanks for that Mike.
Are you able to give me a bit more info as to why you think option 1 is a terrible purchase?
Its a H colour and its GIA certified, not EGL.
What do you think.
Strong blue is usually a big no-no. The vast majority of the time they have a milky/hazy look to them in different lighting settings. Its possible that it isn’t a bad diamond, but any jeweler that is despicable enough to try to sell you an EGL diamond should not be trusted to purchase an SB diamond from.
Thanks Mike that info has helped me out a lot. I will be giving these people a wide berth.
I had no idea going into this diamond purchase thing but your website and advice have helped me out heaps.
Much appreciated mate!
Hi Mike,
Looking into a Brilliant Cut, hopefully looking to spend no more than 4k-5k…1 crt
What do you think of the following:
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/K-SI1-Very%20Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1397274.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/J-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Round-Diamond-1438639.asp
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/J-SI1-Very%20Good-Cut-Round-Diamond-1437758.asp
I guess the main question is, can you get away with a K color on a brilliant round cut?
Cheers,
Byron
Hi Byron,
What type of setting are you getting? If its a yellow gold solitaire, you can easily get away with a K color.
Mike,
First, thank you for the advice you offer on this site!
I recently found this article by Wired Magazine that was published awhile back.
The author discusses man-made diamonds that he concludes are physically and chemically identical to natural ones. Of the two companies discussed, one -Gemesis recently became an online dealer.
After taking this site’s advice into consideration, I noticed that IGI certifies their diamonds, not AGS or GIA, like you recommend.
I’m still wondering what you’ll say though: is this a breakthrough or just a well-marketed product?
Best,
TM
Hi TM,
Personally I wouldn’t have a problem with buying an artificial diamond. That said you have to understand a few things about them:
1) They aren’t using the industry standard for grading, so its harder to tell what they are.
2) They are terrible investments because they have virtually no resale value. Now you shouldn’t look at your diamond as an investment, but ignoring the fact that you can sell it or trade it in in the future is unwise. Think about it this way. If a gmemsis diamond saves you a couple of bucks now, but then you end up not being able to trade it in later on down the road, you end up losing money on it.
Hi Mike, I’m looking for a round 1.0 carat diamond to set in a platinum solitaire pendant. Should I be looking for the same characteristics in a diamond for a pendant as I would for an engagement ring? Or are other properties more important? Thanks much.
The specs are similar. What is your ballpark budget? I’d be happy to make some recommendations.
I found this when looking for a minimum 1 carat emerald cut. What do you think?
http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/I-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1465160.asp
Hi Clayton,
I don’t like the L:W ratio on that diamond. It is really stubby for an emerald look. You are better of going with this diamond:
http://www.overstock.com/Jewelry-Watches/14k-Gold-1-2ct-TDW-Round-Diamond-Stud-Earrings-E-F-VS1-VS2/6362820/product.html
Can you help me decide what the better value / better diamond is. Thanks
A 1.41 carat princess diamond with a “Premium” cut. It has a color grade of I, a clarity grade of SI2 and is certified by GIA for $5512 USD
A 1.52 carat princess diamond with an “Ideal” cut. It has a color grade of H, a clarity grade of VS1 and is certified by EGL for $6341 USD.
Need more details on the cuts of these stones. Table & depth pcts.